The starter is an electromechanical device. This suggests that the principle of operation of the starter is to use the electrical energy of the battery and convert it into mechanical energy.

Internal structure of the unit:

The starter is divided into 5 main elements:

1. The body is made of steel and is shaped like a cylinder. On the outer wall there are 4 field windings (usually there are 4 or more) and cores (aka “poles”). Everything is held together with screw connections. The screw is twisted into a core to press the winding against the wall. The body has special holes for fastening the front part of the device, where the overrunning clutch moves.
2. The armature is an axis made of special steel onto which the armature and commutator plates are pressed. The cores have special grooves for laying armature windings. The ends of the winding are fixed to the collector plate. The collector plates are located on a circle and mounted on a dielectric platform. The diameter of the core depends on the diameter of the body. The anchor is secured to the front and back covers using bushings made of copper and steel. Bushings are also bearings.
3. The traction relay is installed on the body of the device. In the rear part of the power relay housing there are contacts - “nickels”, a movable jumper contact made of soft metal. “Pyataks” are simple bolts driven into the cover of the traction relay. Using nuts, the battery power wires, as well as the wires of the positive brushes, are put on it. The core is connected to the overrunning clutch using a rocker arm called a Benedix (the name comes from the name of the American engineer Benedix who created it).
4. The Benedix is ​​tightly mounted on the shaft and is a roller mechanism connected to a meshing gear in the flywheel crown. When torque is applied to the Benedix, the cage rollers move out of the grooves, firmly fixing the gear to the outer race. Rotating in the opposite direction, the rollers enter the separator, and the gear begins its rotation, independent of the outer race.
5. Through the brush holder, direct voltage is applied to the copper and graphite brushes, which is transferred to the armature commutator plates. In appearance, the brush holder is a dielectric cage with metal inserts, and the brushes are located inside it. The brush contacts are welded to the point plates. The pole plates are the tails of the field windings.

In order for a car engine to be able to start, the following processes occur in its depths:

• after closing the contacts in the ignition switch, the current is directed through the starter relay to the pull-in winding of the traction relay;
• the armature of the retractor relay, moving inside the housing, pushes the bendix out of the housing and engages its gear with the flywheel ring;
• when the armature of the retractor relay reaches the end point, the contacts close and current flows to the holding winding of the relay and the winding of the starter motor;
• The rotation of the starter shaft causes the machine engine to start. After the speed of rotation of the flywheel exceeds the speed of rotation of the starter shaft, the bendix disengages from the ring and, using return spring is installed in its original position;
• When the key in the ignition switch returns to the first position to start the engine, the supply of electricity to the starter is stopped.

Among the starter malfunctions, the following should be noted:

• turning on the starter does not develop the required engine speed (it turns slowly);
• turning on the starter provokes the grinding of the starter gear, which is not engaged;
• the starter is not activated;
• the starter armature rotates, but the unit does not turn the crankshaft;
• The starter does not turn off after starting the engine.

The reasons for these problems are:

• poor starter connection or weak starter pole connection;
• inappropriate oil in the engine crankcase;
• battery failure or discharge;
• poor brush contact or loose wire ends;
• short circuit in the starter windings;
• the drive moves heavily along the shaft;
• the teeth of the flywheel ring have become unusable;
• the travel of the drive gear and the closing moment of the switch contacts is not adjusted properly;
• there is no contact when the ignition is turned on or the ignition switch has become unusable;
• the starter drive buffer spring is weakened;
• blocking the drive on the armature shaft;
• burning of relay contacts or its unsuitability for operation;
• bearing wear;
• the drive gear is “late” to disengage from the ring gear.

Only timely diagnostic measures, as well as high-quality, professional service will prevent such incidents, and if this has already happened - use the services of specialists from our StarteR Service Center.

Signs and causes of starter malfunction:

Question: why doesn't the starter turn on?

Answer: the contact connections may be broken, something has broken in the starter circuits, or the reason is short circuit. In addition, there may be a problem inside the traction relay.

Question: Where does the clicking sound come from when starting the starter?

Answer: The cause may be a discharged battery, loose contacts in the starter circuit, or a malfunction of the traction relay winding.

Question: Why does the armature not rotate when the starter is turned on, and if it does rotate, it is slow?

Answer: This happens mainly due to a discharged battery. In addition, the reasons may be burnt contacts of the traction relay, broken contact connections, a dirty commutator, old brushes, or a short circuit may have occurred in the windings.

Question: What is the reason for the ignition switch sticking in the Start position?

Answer: Most likely, the bendix did not come out of the clutch that was with the flywheel. The motor spun the starter armature, causing the starter to burn out.

Question: Why does the ignition always stick?

Answer: The reason is the starter working after starting the engine. There is no point in repairs, because the starter will break anyway.

Question: What is the secret to quick starter wear?

Answer: when the engine starts, the starter armature rotates at a frequency of one and a half thousand per minute; due to a couple of extra seconds, the number of revolutions increases by about 5 thousand. Therefore, the life of bushings, brushes, bendix, forks and commutators is exhausted faster.

Question: Why didn't the starter turn off after starting the engine?

Answer: The cause may be a malfunction of the freewheel in the starter or the contacts inside the traction relay are caked.

Question: What happens if the starter armature rotates when turned on, but the flywheel remains stationary?

Answer: all due to damage to the teeth of the flywheel or drive gear, problems with the lever, loose fastenings to the clutch housing starter, slipping of the device clutch, or problems with the drive ring.

Question: What is the reason for loss of starter power in a warm car?

Answer: such a loss is hidden:

• in mounting bolts;
• in mounting locations;
• among rotten power wires under the braid;
• in oxidized areas where wires and contact terminals are compacted;
• on rusty mounting bolts and nuts.

Instructions for use:

It must be remembered that the starter is a powerful electric motor, but only of short duration. Don't forget about this, try to follow the important instructions:

Turn on the starter for no more than 10 seconds. If the car engine does not start, leave the starter alone for 30 seconds, as it cools extremely slowly. After 2-3 unsuccessful engine starts, take a 4-minute break.

Watch the contacts in the battery terminals. It often happens that the terminals oxidize and the starter does not accept the current it needs, as a result of which it does not develop sufficient torque. The engine does not start, and instead of cleaning the terminals, we take the unit in for repair. Of course, the masters will explain the reason, but the time is wasted.

After starting the engine, turn off the starter. If this is not done, then 2-3 seconds will simply destroy the node. After all, when starting the engine, the starter armature has a rotation speed of 1500 rpm, and after starting, the armature will begin to rotate at a speed many times greater (if the bendix is ​​engaged with the engine flywheel). An increase in speed will lead to increased wear on all starter parts, which will lead to complete destruction of the unit. Watch this moment, do not allow such meaningless rotation. The same effect is inherent in the case of malfunctions of the ignition switch.

Do not move the vehicle using the starter. It is worth considering that the lower the speed, the more current flows to the starter windings. If you park the car on hand brake, turn on the gear, and then turn on the starter, then after 30 seconds of such madness the windings of the unit will simply burn out, and the battery will also become unusable.

Take care of your car, and it will come to your aid more than once.

The starter is the main unit of the engine starting system, spinning its shaft to the rotation speed required to start the engine. Knowing what a starter is in a car and what it serves is necessary in order to determine the malfunction and carry out repairs.

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Device Description

This device is made in the form of a cylinder placed in a metal case. Its length is about 15 cm and its diameter is approximately 7-10 cm depending on the model. Another smaller cylindrical element, a relay, can be connected to the starter mechanism. The node will connect to at least one wire from the battery, another wire can go to the relay.

Why is a starter needed in a car and where is it located?

A starter in a car is a mechanism whose purpose is to act on the crankshaft in order to rotate it, necessary for.

The starter is installed at the junction of the power unit and the gearbox. A plastic casing made in the shape of a bell is usually located here. Depending on the car model, the starter mechanism can be installed closer to the top or bottom. In the first case, the car owner will have access to it from the engine compartment, and in the second, from under the bottom. The device is fixed using two or three bolts.

Car starter device

Structurally, this unit in the machine consists of the following components:

• 1 – drive shaft;
• 2 – bushing located on the front cover of the mechanism;
• 3 – restrictive ring;
• 4 – gear equipped with an internal ring of the overrunning clutch;
• 5 – overrunning pulley roller;
• 6 – drive device shaft support with liner;
• 7 – planetary gear axis;
• 8 – sealing element;
• 9 – bracket for the mechanism lever;
• 10 – the lever of the drive device itself;
• 11 – front cover of the starter mechanism;
• 12 – anchor relay device;
• 13 – fixing winding;
• 14 – traction winding;
• 15 – solenoid relay;
• 16 – rod of the above element;
• 17 – retractor relay core;
• 18 – plate with contact elements of the mechanism;
• 19 – protective cover of the solenoid relay;
• 20 – contact screws;
• 21 – terminal for connecting positive brush elements;
• 22 – bracket;
• 23 – brush holder;
• 24 – positive brush;
• 25 – anchor device shaft;
• 26 – coupling element;
• 27 – back cover of the mechanism, equipped with a bushing;
• 28 – collector device;
• 29 – vehicle starter housing;
• 30 – permanent magnet;
• 31 – core of the anchor device;
• 32 – armature shaft support with installed liner;
• 33 – planetary gear of the mechanism;
• 34 – the main gear of the device, which is central;
• 35 – carrier;
• 36 – gear equipped with internal teeth;
• 37 – device tapping ring;
• 38 – hub with an external ring of the overrunning clutch.

Starter operating principle

When you try to start the engine, the unit operates as follows:

1. Current is supplied through the closed contact elements of the ignition switch to the mechanism relay. After this, it goes to the terminals of the traction winding.
2. The anchor device of the traction relay begins to perform translational movements inside the mechanism body. This causes the overrunning clutch to move until the teeth of its operating gear engage with the teeth of the flywheel ring.
3. When the anchor device of the traction relay reaches the final position, this will lead to the closure of the contact elements. As a result, current is supplied directly to the winding of the electric motor, as well as to the element holding the relay.
4. The shaft of the starter mechanism begins to transmit torque to the crankshaft of the power unit, for which a flywheel is used. The rotation supply helps ensure that the machine's engine starts.
5. After the rotation speed of the flywheel becomes greater than the engine crankshaft, the teeth of the Bendix working gear will leave the mesh with the crown. This will lead to the return of the overrunning clutch spring to its initial state, which was before the engine was started.
6. In the next step, the key in the position lock returns to its standard state. This leads to the cessation of current supply to the contact elements of the starter device from the battery. In the future, the functioning of the car engine takes place without the participation of the mechanism.

When starting the machine's engine is complete, power is no longer supplied to the starter assembly.

User Mikhail Nesterov spoke in detail about what a starter is in a car and the operating principle of this device.

Types of starters

This type of device can be divided into two types:

• with gearbox;
• without him.

With gearbox

The main feature of this type of mechanism is reduced current consumption to ensure efficient operation of the unit. Thanks to this, the starter can efficiently crank the engine crankshaft even in the event of a low battery charge. The main advantage of the devices is the use permanent magnets in the design. This makes it possible to ensure a longer service life of the stator winding and reduce problems associated with it to a minimum.

In practice, car owners of cars equipped with such starters face other problems. For example, long-term operation leads to failure of the rotating gear. However, this malfunction is usually caused by a factory defect or poor-quality manufacturing of the mechanism.

In addition to a long service life, gear units have the following advantages:

• compact dimensions and light weight;
• low cost of spare parts for repair and restoration of the mechanism;
• the ability to effectively start the power unit at low temperatures.

Disadvantages of devices:

• Spare parts for repairing the unit are difficult to find, so they often have to be ordered;
• as a result of the low cost of parts, their quality suffers;
• difficulty in performing repairs compared to gearless mechanisms.

User Dmitry Traktorenko spoke about the operating features of gear devices.

Without gearbox

By design, this type of mechanism is not equipped with a gear element, but is characterized by a direct effect on the rotation of the gear. The main advantage is a more simplified design of the starter unit, which allows you to repair it yourself. When the supply of current to the electromagnetic switch element is completed, the gear of the mechanism instantly engages with the flywheel. This promotes faster ignition and engine starting.

This type of starter mechanisms is characterized by increased endurance, which helps to increase service life. This reduces the likelihood of faults occurring due to current exposure. The disadvantages of gearless devices include poor quality of operation in severe frost.

The main advantages of starters not equipped with gearboxes:

• high reliability;
• possibility of simple repairs;
• If the device breaks down, you can easily find parts to restore it on sale.

• gearless mechanisms are more bulky, their mass is higher;
• such a device requires more electricity to operate;
• As a result of the expensive materials used in the production of such starters, the cost of replacing parts will be higher.

The Ingvar channel spoke in more detail about the choice of devices between gearbox and gearless options.

The most common starter faults

If the starter in a car begins to work intermittently, this leads to difficulties in starting the internal combustion engine. Problems in the functioning of the mechanism can be eliminated independently, but to do this you need to understand the “symptoms” of the problems.

Symptoms of a problem

The following signs may indicate that the starter mechanism will soon fail:

1. When turning the key in the ignition switch, delays appear. The battery is charged. It is necessary to pay attention to diagnosing the device, in particular, checking the solenoid relay.
2. Difficulty scrolling crankshaft power unit. The problem may appear in the cold season, then it indicates a low battery. But if this happens in the summer and the battery is charged, then it is necessary to diagnose the brush assembly and the condition of the bearing elements.
3. When starting the engine, the gear of the starter mechanism has difficulty disengaging with the flywheel crown. A sound uncharacteristic of the device's operation appears.
4. When you turn the key in the lock, the crankshaft begins to rotate, but the power unit does not start.
5. When the driver tries to start the car, the starter assembly does not rotate and does not show any signs of operation.
6. The car's power unit was started successfully, but after that the starter unit does not turn off. It continues to rotate and consume a certain amount of electricity.

If the starter mechanism does not turn the crankshaft, the device relay does not click and the armature does not rotate

This may be due to the following problems:

1. The battery has been discharged and the device is faulty. It is necessary to diagnose the battery and restore its charge by using a charger.
2. The presence of oxidation or poor contact or starter mechanism. The problem is solved by cleaning and restoring the contact element.
3. Problems in the functioning of the contact component of the ignition switch. In this case, the switch device will have to be removed and completely disassembled to determine the cause of the problem. If the contact group is burnt out, it must be replaced.
4. The presence of an interturn short circuit or a short circuit to ground in the winding of the solenoid relay of the starter mechanism. The problem may be a broken electrical circuit. The device is subject to diagnostics. Rewinding the windings can solve the problem, but often does not allow this to be done. It would be advisable to replace it.
5. The reason may be that the anchor device of the traction relay is stuck. The latter requires diagnosis. If it fails, it is replaced with a new one.

If the starter assembly slowly cranks the crankshaft of the power unit, the reasons may be:

1. Burning of the collector device or the appearance of a short circuit between the plate elements of the assembly. A detailed check is required and, if necessary, the manifold must be replaced.
2. Critical wear of the brush mechanism or its freezing. A complete disassembly of the starter device and checking of the elements is required. It is possible that the position of the brushes can be adjusted, but if they are worn out, then the only solution to the problem is to replace them.
3. A break in the winding of the stator mechanism or anchor device. It will be necessary to measure the resistance of these components. You can try to rewind the winding, but this often does not work. Most likely, parts will need to be replaced.
4. Interturn short circuit or short circuit to ground in the windings of the stator mechanism or armature. In this case, the problem can be solved in a similar way - by measuring the resistance and rewinding the conductors.

If the starter unit is working normally, but the crankshaft does not rotate, the causes of the malfunction will be different and the device will need to be dismantled and disassembled:

1. Freewheel slippage. You can dismantle the bendix and try to restore it, but this unit is usually not repairable. It will have to be changed.
2. Failure of the clutch deactivation lever or the axis of this element jumping out.
3. Breakage of the coupling drive ring or buffer spring element.
4. The movement of the drive device on the screw thread of the armature shaft has become tighter. This element may also become stuck.

If, when turning the starter device, you hear the grinding of the gear on the flywheel teeth, the causes of the problem may be the following:

1. The appearance of nicks in the teeth of the device. It cannot be restored; the mechanism must be replaced.
2. Incorrect adjustment of the gear travel of the drive device, as well as the closing moment of the contact elements of the switch. Correctly setting the mechanism can solve the problem.
3. Weakening of the spring element of the drive device. You can try to adjust the position of the spring; if necessary, replace it.
4. The solenoid relay may be stuck. With this problem, the starter unit will not turn off after starting the power plant.

How to protect the starter from damage?

To increase the service life of the mechanism, it is necessary to periodically carry out its maintenance. It makes sense to check the operation of the device if, when you try to start, the engine does not start within the first five seconds.

Points that will prevent rapid breakdown of the starter mechanism:

1. It is necessary to use the automatic engine start function carefully if the anti-theft system provides such an opportunity. Remote starting of an internal combustion engine quickly burns out the starter mechanism and contributes to accelerated battery discharge.
2. You cannot move the vehicle using this unit. This is often resorted to by drivers whose vehicles unexpectedly run out of fuel. With such operation, the structural elements of the device quickly wear out and fail. This is facilitated by the increased loads under which the starter operates.
3. The unit must not be left activated after starting the power unit for more than ten seconds. If the car engine does not start, you need to let the mechanism wait at least a minute, only then try again. This will allow the starter assembly to cool. Its parts heat up quickly upon startup; if they do not cool down, the device will wear out quickly.
4. Periodically it is necessary to diagnose the reliability of the contact elements on the battery terminals. If there is oxidation, the components must be cleaned, as this will cause an obstruction in the flow of current from the battery to the starter.
5. When the power unit is started, the unit must be turned off immediately. You cannot hold the key in a position that facilitates the operation of the starter after starting the internal combustion engine. This will cause it to wear out quickly.

The Maysternya TV channel spoke about the features of the Maintenance this type of device.

Starter diagnostics and repair

The procedure for checking and repairing the mechanism is divided into several stages:

• removal;
• device disassembly;
• diagnostics and recovery;
• assembly and installation.

Dismantling

The removal procedure is considered using the example of the VAZ 2101 model:

1. The negative contact from the battery is disconnected, which will prevent short circuits in the system. It is recommended to treat the starter mounting screws with WD-40. They are usually tightly fixed and may be difficult to remove.
2. The air filter device is removed from the internal combustion engine carburetor. To do this, the screws securing it are unscrewed and the assembly is dismantled.
3. By using wrench You need to unscrew the nuts that secure the starter mechanism to the engine block.
4. Then the assembly is moved forward and the connected wires are disconnected from it. When performing a task, it is recommended to remember their location, or better yet, take a photo so as not to confuse them when connecting.
5. The starter mechanism is removed.

The “Auto Repair and Maintenance” channel presented detailed guide on dismantling the device with a description of all the features of this process.

Parsing the device

1. The retractor cylinder is removed from the device. To do this, disconnect the cable and unscrew the nut on the contact screw. Then it is recommended to screw the fastening element with the washer back on so as not to lose it.
2. Using a screwdriver, remove three screws that secure the cylinder to the starter device. The retractor element is dismantled and the spring part is removed. The anchor device is being removed. To do this, it must be pulled up, disengaged and dismantled.
3. The next step is to remove the protective casing of the starter mechanism. To do this, use a screwdriver to unscrew the two mounting bolts and dismantle the cover.
4. The two coupling bolts are unscrewed. The cover is removed from the starter mechanism housing.
5. The screws are unscrewed, with the help of which the winding of the device is fixed to the plates of the brush assembly holder. The insulating pipe is removed.
6. The cover on the side of the collector device is disconnected from the body of the mechanism itself.
7. The starter winding jumper is removed from the brush holder. The elements themselves are removed using a screwdriver.
8. Pressing in progress rear hub, to complete the task you will need a mandrel of the appropriate diameter.
9. Then the cotter pin of the drive device lever, as well as its axis, is removed. To do this you will need a flat head screwdriver.
10. After dismantling the rubberized plug, the starter drive unit must be disengaged from the clutch and removed.
11. The next step is to remove the drive lever.
12. The washer and the retaining ring are removed. At this stage you need to be careful not to lose details.
13. Next, the coupling of the drive device is removed from the shaft of the anchor element of the mechanism.
14. At the final stage of disassembly, the front bushing is pressed out of the assembly cover. A mandrel of the required size is used.

Check and recovery

After disassembling the device, all components are diagnosed and repaired or replaced:

1. At the first stage, brushes are diagnosed for wear. The height of these elements must be at least 1.2 cm for the VAZ 2101. This value may differ depending on the car model. A caliper is used for diagnosis. If the check shows wear on the brushes, these elements must be replaced.
2. Then a visual diagnosis of the windings is performed; traces of burning are not allowed on them. The anchor assembly must be intact, there must be no defects or chips on it.
3. If cracks are found on the starter housing, this problem The only way to solve this is by replacement. Through such damage, moisture can enter the mechanism, which will lead to its complete breakdown. Finding a new housing is problematic, and if this cannot be done, then the starter is replaced.
4. The coupling must not wear out. It is necessary to visually assess the integrity of its teeth. If at least one of them is missing, the coupling must be replaced.
5. The so-called nickels of the retractor cylinder are diagnosed. These elements must have good contact. Otherwise they change.
6. If, when the device is activated, the assembly rotates, but the flywheel does not rotate, the problem must be looked for in the gears. Damaged elements must be replaced.
7. If, when you try to start the engine, a click is heard, but the internal combustion engine does not start, then the retractor cylinder must be replaced.
8. Then the shaft seat is diagnosed; it must have the appropriate diameter. A small gap is allowed on the anchor device of the starter mechanism, but if the gap is significant, the part must be replaced. It is recommended to clean the surface of the element with fine-grained sandpaper. You also need to flush the collector device.

The drive gear, armature seat, and bearing elements are subject to lubricant treatment - this will prevent rapid wear of the starter.

Assembly and installation

The assembly procedure is a more complex task that is performed in reverse order, with:

1. When installing the retaining ring on the anchor element, you must be careful: if the part falls, you need to find and install it.
2. When performing a task, the brushes of the mechanism must not be swapped. This will lead to incorrect operation device and short circuit.
3. During installation, all bolts must be fully tightened to secure them. In this case, you should be careful not to damage the threads on the elements. Before tightening, it is recommended to treat the screws with lubricant, which will make them easier to unscrew during further disassembly.
4. When installing the device, tighten the fastening elements to power unit must be done gradually. This will prevent possible distortion of the mechanism.
5. After installing the device, all previously removed components are reinstalled in the engine compartment. The air filter is put in place. A block with wires is connected to the starter mechanism. Then you need to reconnect the cables to the battery terminals.

Photo gallery

Photo of the starter and its connection diagram:

Video “Features of installing a unit after repair”

User Sergey Romanov spoke about the features of installing the starter mechanism after repairs, using the example of a Zhiguli.

The engine starter is one of the main components of the ignition system in any car. Therefore, with the device and principle of operation this mechanism Every motorist should be familiar with this. This article is dedicated to this particular node.

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Car starter device

So that, if necessary, you can repair a poorly functioning unit in the car yourself, you need to read the description of what a car starter is, in principle. Any electric starter located in the engine compartment allows you to start the car's engine. These devices may differ from each other, but not much, only in certain design characteristics.

Depending on the type, a recoil starter includes from forty to sixty individual components that make up its main parts, including:

• electric motor direct current;
• bendix;
• solenoid relay.

These are the main elements of the unit, without which normal operation would be impossible.

In addition to them, the starter device includes:

• the so-called mask;
• brush holder;
• metal case;
• bushing or bearing;
• the so-called anchor.

Every car enthusiast should understand the purpose of the starter and the scheme of its operation and, most importantly, what function its various parts perform. The electric motor is the main component of the unit; its shaft, when the starter starts working and the gears are activated, transmits rotation to the crank pulley of the engine itself. Bendix and retractor relay are additional elements of the system. The purpose of the bendix is ​​to temporarily connect the device shaft to the flywheel crown, which also ensures rotation of the crankshaft.

As for the solenoid relay, it performs several functions:

1. The Bendix moves with the working gear along the electric motor pulley with the movement of the armature.
2. The relay also closes the contacts of the electric motor after the gear is connected to the flywheel ring.

Types of starters

We’ve figured out where the starter is and what it looks like, now let’s look at the main types of starters:

1. Unit with gearbox. This option is recommended by many domestic experts, which is due to the fact that a node of this type is characterized by a reduced current requirement in order to operate normally. Mechanisms with gearboxes allow you to ensure the most optimal rotation of the crankshaft even if the battery charge is minimal. In addition, one of the main advantages of this unit is the presence of permanent magnets, as a result of which possible problems with the stator winding are reduced to virtually zero. However, regular use of the mechanism can cause the rotation gear to fail, but this is usually due to poor quality of the mechanism or defective parts.
2. Without gearbox. The main characteristic of a gearless mechanism is that it has a direct effect on the rotation of the gear. In this case, the main advantage is the simpler design of the unit; accordingly, if necessary, it can always be repaired. After the impulse is transmitted to the electromagnetic switch, the gear is engaged with the flywheel. Thanks to this, it is possible to ensure fast ignition. It is also necessary to take into account that gearless mechanisms are usually characterized by a longer service life, so the possibility of failure is, in principle, minimal. A significant drawback is that a unit without a gearbox can perform much worse at low temperatures.

The principle and features of the unit’s operation

This unit itself is an electromechanical device. Accordingly, the principle of operation of the starter is based on exploiting the voltage supplied by the battery, followed by converting it into mechanical energy.

How does a car starter work:

1. First, after the driver turns the key in the ignition switch, the contacts in the ignition switch close. As a result, the resulting current is redirected via a relay to the pull-in winding.
2. Next, the armature of the retractor relay, which is equipped with an inertial starter, falls into the middle of the mechanism body. Subsequently, he moves the bendix out of the housing, after which it engages the overrunning clutch drive gear with the flywheel crown.
3. At the moment when the above-described anchor reaches its final position, the contacts in the system close. Then the current is transmitted to two windings - the electric motor of the mechanism and the relay. This happens when the gear moves and engages.
4. Then the shaft itself begins to rotate, which helps start the engine vehicle. At the moment when the speed of movement of the flywheel becomes greater than the speed of movement of the shaft itself, the bendix leaves the engagement with the ring. This occurs due to the action of the return spring. Subsequently, the bendix returns to the initial position.
5. After the key in the lock returns to the first position, voltage stops flowing to the unit. The video below provides a detailed lesson for motorists on the principle of operation and the main malfunctions of the unit (the author of the video is Avtoelektrika HF)

As you can see, in general, the principle of operation of the mechanism is quite simple, especially if you have read the information presented above and know what elements the unit consists of. In any case, the starter power plays an important role - the higher it is, the easier it is to start the engine. As for rewinding and repair, there is, in general, nothing complicated here either.

If the device has failed and you do not know how to make a starter, then first of all you need to pay attention to the elements that are most often subject to wear:

• solenoid relay;
• brushes that tend to wear out;
• The bearings also wear out, if this is the case, the device will begin to vibrate.

A self-made mechanism can be used if its other components are not destroyed during the vibration process. More information about how the procedure for repair, disassembly, and dismantling at home is carried out is presented in the video below (the author of the video is Vladislav Chikov).

What else do you need to know about the starter?

The device with a gearbox is mounted on engines characterized by high power, as well as diesel internal combustion engines. The gearbox itself, which has several gears in its device, is installed directly in the housing and allows you to increase the voltage several times. Accordingly, this helps to increase torque.

We have already talked about the advantages of such mechanisms, but now we will consider them in more detail:

1. Geared devices are more efficient, their efficiency is much higher.
2. If the engine is started cold, the device will consume less current.
3. The geared element, compared to the gearless element, is more compact.
4. The gearbox allows you to maintain operating efficiency and operational features even when the starting current of the battery decreases.

As for gearless devices, they are simpler in design, but more resistant to increased loads.

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Video “Video lesson - how a car starter works”

A detailed video tutorial on the operating principle of this vehicle unit is presented in the video below (the author of the video is Mikhail Nesterov).

The starter is the main unit of the engine starting system; in fact, it is a direct current electric motor with a mechanical drive. The principle of operation of the starter is based on the movement of the overrunning clutch (bendix) on the shaft when the relay is activated. The operation of the electromechanical device is short-lived, since after the gear is discarded, it no longer participates in the movement of the car.

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Where is the starter located?

In a car, the starter is located at the junction of the engine and transmission mechanism. The place where these parts of the car equipment are connected is covered with a plastic housing made in the shape of a bell.

Access to it varies depending on the machine model:

• from below, from under the bottom of the car;
• from the engine compartment, under the hood.

The mechanism is fixed according to the standard with three or two bolts.

Location of the starter in the car: red arrows show mounting bolts and electrical wiring connections

Why is a starter needed and what are its functions?

A starter is needed to convert electrical energy into mechanical energy to start the power unit.

The purpose of the mechanism is demonstrated in the video. Author - serzh86.

Types of starters

According to its structure, the electromechanism is divided into two types:

• with the presence of a gearbox in the design;
• without gearbox.

With gearbox

Reductive starters are efficient in operation and save battery power consumption, since permanent magnets in the mechanism increase the period of use of the stator winding.

Advantages:

• increased service life of the part due to the strengthening of the gearbox;
• small size and lightness;
• reliable operation in winter at sub-zero temperatures.

Disadvantages of a gear starter:

• repairing a faulty element requires high competence of a repairman;
• difficulty in selecting spare parts.

Without gearbox

A gearless starter is designed in such a way that it supplies torque directly to the overrunning clutch without transmission through a gear mechanism.

Its advantages include:

• reliability and ease of use in warm weather;
• ease of repair due to lightweight design;
• prevalence of spare parts for restoration to working condition.

The number of disadvantages of starters without a gearbox is no less:

• significant size and heaviness;
• increased consumption of battery energy reserves;
• unreliable operation in the cold season at sub-zero temperatures.

Photo gallery

Starter without gearbox Starter with gear mechanism General diagram of a starter with a gearbox

Starter device

The part is made in the form of a small cylinder placed in a metal body with a length of 13 to 15 centimeters. Often a relay (a similar element, but smaller in size) is also connected to it through a wire. The second cable must be connected to the battery.

The engine starting system in a car includes 5 main elements:

1. Electric motor. Presented as a metal cylinder, inside of which cores and windings are attached. According to the standard, there are four of them; they are fastened with a screw, tightly pressed against the inner wall. Special threaded holes in the housing provide mounting for the front part where the overrunning clutch moves.
2. Anchor. This starter element is made in the form of an axis. It is made of alloy steel and serves as the central part of the mechanism, in which the collector plates and core are placed.
3. Solenoid relay. Transmits the impulse from the ignition switch directly to the electric starter motor, pushing out the overrunning clutch.
4. Inclusion drive or bendix. A mechanism with a roller attached to one of the armature shafts. This element is movable and performs an important function in transmitting torque. The meshing gear spins the flywheel rim, ensuring the stability of the mechanism during operation. Immediately after starting the engine internal combustion the overrunning clutch disengages the gear, maintaining system functionality.
5. Brush unit. Stabilizes the voltage on the armature plates. Brushes and special brush holders perform the main work in the cycle of transmitting current to torque.

The photo shows the components of the starting device

Connection diagram and operating principle

The principle of operation of the starter is carried out according to a given connection diagram:

1. When you turn the key in the ignition switch, the traction relay is powered by battery electricity and forms a contact.
2. The overrunning clutch gear engages the flywheel and brings it into motion.
3. The switching drive closes the circuit, applying voltage to the armature and plates, thus bringing the electric motor into operating condition.
4. Then the internal combustion engine starts. At the moment when the internal combustion engine spins up faster than the starter, the overrunning clutch disengages the gear and the device turns off.

Standard wiring diagram for starter mechanism

Possible faults

Possible starter malfunctions arise, as a rule, due to violation of its operating conditions.

Signs of breakdowns and diagnostics

Symptoms of the most common starter problems:

• suspicious noise or crackling noise when turning the ignition key;
• the engine stalls without the electric motor operating;
• inability to start the internal combustion engine;
• “sneeze” of the starter mechanism without engaging the flywheel.

More often starting device breaks due to an open electrical circuit, so you should check:

• battery charge level;
• wiring for damage;
• fastening terminals;
• ignition keyhole.

If there are no problems with the above, then the next step is to check the traction relay. This element can be diagnosed without removing the starter, since the operation of the electric motor depends on it. If, when you close the contacts on the relay with a flat-head screwdriver, the electric motor starts, then the cause of the breakdown lies precisely in this part.

Types of faults

There are two types of starter malfunctions - mechanical and electrical.

Electrical problems requiring qualified assistance:

• periodic closure of the armature winding;
• breakage of the solenoid relay and stator;
• breakage of brushes and contact plates;
• core wear and lack of contact in the electric motor.

Starter mechanical faults:

• locking the switching drive on the flywheel crown;
• deformation of gear teeth;
• damage to bearings and bendix;
• burnt surface of "nickels".

Causes of problems

The most common causes of malfunctions:

1. If the starter begins to make a characteristic “buzzing” sound and operates at “ Idling“, this means that the overrunning clutch is not connected, and the mechanism operates without the gear engaging the shaft. The problem can be resolved by washing the Bendix in a special cleaning solution or gasoline. It is recommended to place the part in a container with liquid, let it sit for an hour and a half, and then move the drive a couple of times to clean the mechanism.
2. If the car does not start, the reason may lie in the lack of power supply. If the circuit is working properly and there is current, it is necessary to check the relay, perhaps the reason lies there. You should thoroughly clean the element from dust, carefully examine the contacts again, assemble and replace the components. If the problem persists, most likely the winding is shorted, and only replacing the part will help.

How to protect the starter from damage?

To protect the starter from damage, you need to know that:

1. Frequent use is one of the main reasons for starter failure.
2. It is strictly forbidden to use an electric starter instead of an internal combustion engine if the fuel runs out. Excessive load on the starter unit will damage it. individual elements. Structurally, the starting device is not intended to operate in main power unit mode.
3. It is forbidden to keep the starter switched on for more than 10 seconds. Most often, the device burns out when trying to start the engine. One-minute intervals should be taken between passes, so that the structural elements have time to cool down and are not subject to premature wear.
4. It is necessary to regularly check the contact points and terminals of the battery. If oxidation stains are detected, they are cleaned for better current conductivity.
5. After starting the engine, the starter unit must be immediately disconnected. Holding the ignition key in the active position increases wear on the electric motor starting system several times.

Video

The thematic channel Maysternya TV has made a useful video with a visual guide to servicing the starter mechanism.

The starter is designed to start the car engine. It consists of three main parts: a DC motor, an auxiliary relay and a drive gear with an overrunning clutch.

Electric motors are used with electromagnetic excitation or with excitation from permanent magnets. The latter are more modern. They are more compact, simpler, consume less current and have a higher rotation speed, but less torque. Therefore, a gearbox is additionally introduced into the design of such starters to increase torque. The gearbox is planetary, consisting of three gears rotating around a central gear. The design of an electric motor includes a rotor (rotating part) and a stator (stationary part). Power is supplied to the rotor using sliding spring-loaded contacts - brushes. The current consumed by the starter during operation is in the range of 100-200 amperes, and when starting in cold weather it can reach 400 - 500 amperes. This is why it is not recommended to keep the starter on for more than 10-15 seconds.

The solenoid relay is designed to supply power to the electric motor and supply the drive gear to the flywheel ring. When the ignition key is turned to the "Start" position, power is supplied to the relay contacts. In this case, the power supply circuit of the electric motor is closed, and the relay armature engages the gear with the flywheel ring through the drive lever. In more modern starters, the solenoid relay has, in addition to the main winding, also a holding winding. This additional winding is designed to reduce the current consumed by the starter, since much less current is needed to keep the relay in the on state than to start it.

The overrunning clutch ("Bendix") protects the starter motor from damage after the engine starts. As soon as the crankshaft speed exceeds the starter speed, the overrunning clutch disconnects the drive gear and the electric motor shaft.

Starter malfunctions

A few “bad tips” on how to quickly and effectively disable the starter:

1. The best way is "Classical". After starting the engine, continue to hold the ignition key in the "Start" position. You can judge the correctness of your actions by the characteristic squeal that every self-respecting starter makes in his death throes. If you are not a sadist by nature, then you can speed up the demise of your favorite starter by stepping on the gas and spinning the engine to 3000-4000 rpm. With the ratio of the flywheel and starter speed somewhere on average 1/20, it is not difficult to calculate the speed with which the Bendix is ​​trying to keep up with the flywheel at such engine speeds. The chase definitely ends with the heavily sweating Bendix overheating and jamming, bringing the fatal ending closer. A jammed bendix pulls either a shaft with a planetary gearbox and an armature, or directly the armature in gearless starters. Then, in just a few seconds, the furiously rotating armature commutator grinds the remaining brushes into powder, and the armature itself heats up to a bluish color. Along the way, sometimes the brush holders come off, the plastic ring of the planetary gearbox shatters into small pieces, and even the starter housing bursts! In short, when instead of a squeal, the starter starts to make an indistinct grunting sound, or light smoke comes out from under the hood, the procedure can be considered complete. Everything should take about five minutes maximum! Note also that a faulty ignition switch often takes over control of this operation, especially on diesel cars, where starters, as a rule, have greater power, and accordingly, significantly larger currents flow through the lock contacts, which is why the contacts burn out over time and stick.
2. Way "Ecological", other names: “Economy”, “For the lazy”, “I don’t want to push!” If the topic of ecology is close to you, then nothing is stopping you from turning your car into an electric vehicle right now. No gas in the tank? And it is not necessary! Feel free to put it in gear and turn the ignition key! Hooray! He's coming!!! This method can also be used when stalled in a large puddle (well, don’t get your feet wet!), when driving into the garage, in general, whenever you are too lazy, don’t want to look for something, figure something out, or generally tear a warm place from a warm one chairs! Well! It’s quite possible to overcome a few hundred meters like this, and this will probably be the starter’s last swan song! Even if you come to your senses halfway, after receiving mortal wounds, the starter is no longer alive in this world. The exhumation of the starters killed in this way shows that their remains are completely identical to the insides of the units killed in the “Classical” way.
3. Way "Ethereal"- only for diesel drivers. Diesel drivers are frugal people; not everyone will refuel with winter diesel fuel in severe frost. It’s much easier to splash some air where it’s needed - and it seems to start working! Just what is that suspicious noise coming from the starter now? Bah! Yes Bendix krantets! Oh, and the starter housing is cracked? A-and: well, there was some kind of detonation during startup: well, what does that have to do with it? And despite the fact that if the fuel injection pump is incorrectly adjusted, or the use of “thinners” like ether, detonation is possible at the moment the engine starts due to earlier ignition of the mixture, and because of which the flywheel crown can make reverse impacts on the bendix. As you know, the compression in diesel engines is about three times higher on average than in gasoline engines; accordingly, the starter experiences three times greater overloads when starting. But if, during detonation, the starter also gets hit in the teeth, then no health is enough - the starter is knocked out. Not only does the bendix break, the front part of the starter (mask) often cannot withstand overloads, and even the steel armature shaft breaks! Diesel drivers! Scrap metal collection points are waiting for you!
4. Way "Puddle". An old reliable method, tested by many generations of those stubborn people who believe that a car should drive in any weather on any roads. Well, a cold shower for the starter and then warming it up is a good conditioning for a real starter. The only pity is that after this many of them begin to “sneeze”, “cough”, many are suddenly “struck by paralysis” and they simply jam, since often the armature simply rusts permanently along with the stator. Maybe then he could just be removed and drowned, like Gerasim Mu-mu? This method is highly recommended for car owners with automatic transmission, especially for all sorts of “jeeps” and other “road vehicles”, which naively believe that an “SUV” is a comfortable amphibian. But you will greatly strengthen the muscles of your back and shoulder girdle by pushing your stalled carriage out of a swampy forest or a small ford! (One can only guess, how will a tow truck get there? Carrying a car with an automatic transmission on a rope is not even recommended!!!) “A wet starter is the key to health,” - this is what will now become your motto when walking, which the time will certainly come to repair the starter, or search for a new one.